Off-center location attracts following Wabi Sabi restaurant thrives on South Main

By Natalie K. Pollock

Staff Writer

Andy Mozer lives in Port Chester, New York but he graduated from Danbury High School, where he formed a close friendship with Gao Cai. After graduation they went their own ways to pursue unrelated professions but eventually migrated back to each other. Two years ago, they opened Wabi Sabi, an updated Japanese restaurant at 135 South Main Street in West Hartford.

Andy Mozer opened Wabi Sabi two years ago with his school-age partner Gao Cai, whose family operates several restaurants. Photo by Natalie K. Pollock

Mozer had traveled extensively but was familiar with the impressive concentration of fine quality restaurants in West Hartford Center, where he hoped to one day find a location for his own. He looked for several years with his friend and intended partner Cai and finally they found an opportunity which required them to buy out the lease of an existing Vietnamese restaurant.

“I had wanted to bring temaki handrolls, uramaki and sushi here from Los Angeles and New York City. I love them but they were slow to catch on in this area,” Mozer said.

The two friends traveled to Japan and, according to Mozer, did a food study in Tokyo. They decided on the Izakaya concept, a kind of pub with food and three to 12 bar stools. They saw “a gap in the food scene” in West Hartford, and an opportunity to fill it with Cai’s cooking background and Mozer’s experience in planning bars.

Wabi Sabi offers an array of sushi, both traditional and contemporary. Courtesy photo

The partners fully renovated the interior of their new restaurant. The kitchen was in good repair. It just required replacement of equipment, and the addition of a skewer grill.

The two had been partners in real estate ventures before this one. Mozer had worked 80-hour days as a cardiac and vascular surgery nurse at Danbury Hospital and then was involved in a serious motorcycle accident which caused him to rethink his life’s trajectory. Cai was an electrical engineer and wanted to pursue owning his own business. His family operates several restaurants.

“I had been invited to tend bar by friends. I found that I loved hospitality. I also owned and operated several Airbnbs. I saw how people appreciate being treated. I’m looking forward to opening a new concept someday,” Mozer said.

The popular eat-up bar counter reflects the sophisticated style of the entire restaurant. Photo by Natalie K. Pollock

As executive chef, Cai is in charge of the kitchen, but each new food idea is reviewed by both partners. The same goes for the bar for each new cocktail recipe. Mozer’s fiancé Kim is his cocktail muse, and she helps with getting supplies and filling in as a server.

“Cai is good at handling the kitchen operations. We often have the grandfather, father and son in the kitchen at the same time. And I designed the bar and layout,” Mozer said.

Their location, somewhat removed from where diners and tourists are used to going, was a concern to the partners in the beginning, but they have found their fledgling business has been accepted by their neighbors, who continue to support them.

The popular FD potatoes are served with a rich garlicky sauce topped with sesame seeds and scallions. Courtesy photo

“We have been embraced by our neighbors. They kept us afloat those first six months. We identify as a neighborhood restaurant. Now people are starting to come down from the Valley towns and even Massachusetts. There is a lot of parking around us,” he added.

Wabi Sabi has also been given tacit approval by the Japanese community for the authenticity of their food, even though their chef is Chinese. Mozer reported that Japanese businessmen come in after their workday and sit together drinking sake as is their tradition.

Q. What is the most popular dish at Wabi Sabi?

The interior of the restaurant is highlighted by paper lanterns and wall accents. Courtesy photo

A. The rice bowl Kaisen Don with salmon, yellowtail, tuna, tobiko and ikura (two kinds of fish roe); also, the Momo chicken thigh skewer, and for sushi the truffle scallops. People mix and match dishes. There are so many small plates that people just move through the menu.

The dining room and bar crowds oscillate. In the late night the bar is full with industry friends, but the dining room is empty by 9:00/10:00. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are the busiest. We had a vintage theme one night with vinyl. Japanese love American jazz. The DJ was Ben Lovejoy.

Takoyaki are battered and fried octopus balls topped with bonito and nori flakes. Mozer and Cai traveled to Japan together and studied the variety of foods there. Courtesy photo

Q. What is your personal favorite dish at your restaurant?

A. I like the Momo, the truffle scallop Temaki, and the FD potatoes with garlic sauce, topped with scallions and sesame seeds.

Q. What is the one cooking technique that everyone should know?

A. Wok tossing. It’s a fantastic way to prepare soups, noodles and vegetables.

Q. Do you have a favorite cookbook or show that you especially love?

A. Dave Arnold. He is a food scientist. He wrote a book on cocktails that focuses on acid balancing and advanced techniques. It’s called Liquid Intelligence. Editor’s note: He is also the founder of the Museum of Food and Drink and hosts a cooking show.

Located on South Main Street and surrounded by parking, Wabi Sabi attracts the neighborhood and visitors. Photo by Natalie K. Pollock

Q. What herb or spice best describes your personality and why?

A. Thai chili because it is hot but has a good flavor. To profile it would be so complex. It has the intensity of a hot pepper and adds fervor to what I do.

Q. What do you like to serve when having guests to your home?

A. I offer an Amara based cocktail (made from Sicilian blood oranges and wild herbs from the slopes of Mount Etna) with an elaborate guacamole and peanut noodles.

Wabi Sabi

135 South Main Street

West Hartford

wabisabict.com

860-816-8133